L'shana haba'ah b'Yerushalayim!

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Seen in Jerusalem

I'm three days into my journey and I'm already gaining insight into Israeli culture far beyond what I experienced during my two previous visits here.

Exhibit A: Law enforcement (or the lack thereof) 
As in every city, street parking in Jerusalem is at a premium -- not to mention the fact that Israeli drivers are insane! On my walk over to the Conservative Yeshiva this morning, I observed the following: a gigantic SUV wedged into a parking spot that was waaaaay too small, so the driver angled his car and popped the front wheel onto the sidewalk so that he could fit into the space diagonally! 

You can't tell this from the picture, but there were no tickets on his window -- probably because Israeli police have security issues much more pressing than enforcing parking regulations to attend to. But then again, while guards are stationed outside most restaurants and stores, they seem to be lost in their own worlds. I'd like to think that this nonchalant attitude is just an act, and that the security guards are really ready to pounce at any minute. However, I've come to discover that many of them are actually pretty clueless. When I asked the man stationed outside the Conservative Yeshiva if I was in the right place, his answer was "I don't know." And when I finally located my Ulpan, no one could tell me what floor I needed to go to. It's slightly unnerving, and I suspect that some of the confusion is because of the language barrier. This was a far cry from the intense security I experienced while traveling on Birthright just three years ago. It almost seems as if people are burnt out. But the good news is that I've felt pretty safe here for the most part, except for occasional cat calls from sketchy old men...

Exhibit B: The economy
After living in New York, you would think that anywhere else in the world would seem cheap in comparison. But aside from my rent, I've found things in Israel to be much more expensive. In my search to buy a hair dryer, I had difficulty finding one for less than 150 sheckels, which is equal to over $40 US dollars! Refusing to succumb to the cost, I feared that I'd have to walk around with matted wet hair for the next year -- although the humidity would probably cancel out any efforts to dry my hair straight anyway. Thankfully, I eventually found one that was on sale for 69 sheckels, or about $20 

Speaking of sales, almost everything is on sale in Israel. In New York, I'm a total sucker for things on sale, especially if they're from the Ann Taylor Loft across the street from my apartment! But in Israel, the "sales" reflect prices that are already jacked up. My friend Rebecca tried to buy a book that was marked "50% off," and the cashier claimed that the savings were already reflected on the sticker. The book was priced at 139 sheckels (about $40) and I HIGHLY doubt that the original going price for the book was twice that amount -- though, as you'll see below, EVERYTHING in the bookstore was marked 50% off. Could it be that they think us Jews are cheap or something? :)


Exhibit C: Other random tidbits
For a city in which a sizable percentage of the population wears suits or skirts each day, I've had a surprisingly difficult time finding skirt hangers! The ones I did find were really expensive, so I opted to drape my skirts over regular hangers, despite the fact that they'll wrinkle. I wonder if the religious Jews splurge for the hangers, compulsively iron their clothes, or just wear the same thing every day. Thoughts? 

Contact lenses are readily available in Israeli pharmacies, with no need for a prescription! 

I was so excited to find a little taste of NYC in Jerusalem -- AKA Max Brenner: Chocolate By the Bald Man, but then I remembered that Max is Israeli and that the chain first opened here! 

The Israeli equivalent to Starbucks is called Cup O' Joe, and yes, the Hebrew letters in the photo literally spell out the store's English name. Unlike most coffee places abroad, they don't bat an eye when you ask for your coffee to go. To me, this is evident of just how many Jerusalemites are actually transplanted Americans. 

Maybe one of these days I'll post pictures of slightly more significance, especially since I hear that Jerusalem has some pretty famous historical sites (insert sarcasm here). Seriously, though, I've already seen Jerusalem through the eyes of a tourist, and it's been fascinating to discover what it is like to like to actually live here. 

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